Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
